Ask the Expert: Does TikTok's "Retinol Sandwich Method" Work?

TikTok trends come and go, but the ones that work for you are forever. Case in point: the retinol sandwich method, BeautyTok’s answer to the potential side effects of the wonder anti-aging ingredient.

What is it and does it really work? Keep reading for a breakdown of this skincare trend and helpful insights and advice from a dermatologist.

ICYDK, retinol, a popular anti-aging ingredient, is a form of vitamin A that’s been studied and used in anti-aging products since the ‘80s, but the original formulas were super potent and aggressive. It led to angry, irritated skin.  

Through the years, milder and weaker formulations were developed to make retinol more well-tolerated by the skin. To date, a quick Google search will lead you to testimonials from retinol aficionados (read: editors, beauty creators, regular users alike) sharing how the ingredient has done wonders on their skin (Fading fine lines! Tighter skin! Smaller pores!) – and their lives.

The only caveat? Even in advancements in formulas, retinol still needs some getting used to. It can cause your skin to purge and break out if you’re a first-time user and more so if you have sensitive skin.

To help minimize the side effects of retinol, BeautyTok recommends sandwiching it between two layers of moisturizers. “Applying retinol or any vitamin A derivative is critical in achieving the best results for your skin,” begins Dr. Irene Zuñiga-Baylon, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Serene Skin Medical and Cosmetic Dermatology.

“Most individuals may find it difficult to start using retinol or any vitamin A derivative because of retinoid dermatitis or skin irritation manifested as dryness, redness, and flaking,” explains Dr. Irene. “This can result from an overzealous application of retinol."

“I recommend using the retinol sandwich method as it can help the skin tolerate the ingredient better,” she says. The first layer preps your skin and hydrates it for better absorption of the retinol, while the other layer is supposed to lock it in.

You can use two of the same moisturizers or two different ones. “There are no hard rules, but the fewer products you use, the better,” points out Dr. Irene. “So, you might want to consider just using the same moisturizer.”  

The sandwich method can help any skin type use retinol sans the side effects. “Generally, if you have dry or sensitive skin, the sandwich method can do wonders for you. If your skin is oily, then only use a moisturizer after retinol,” says Dr. Irene. Still, it’s best to practice caution. Observe and see how your skin reacts.

Is the sandwich method effective for retinol and does it help prevent side effects? As long as you do it properly, it can help your skin tolerate retinol better. “To answer the question, I think it does the opposite. Because moisturizer helps the retinol be absorbed better, it makes the ingredient more effective,” says Dr. Irene.

Pro tip: Make sure your skin absorbs the first layer of moisturizer first. Then, apply retinol on dry skin to avoid irritation. “If you’re applying a moisturizer before retinol, wait five minutes before doing so,” Dr. Irene advises. “You can also use a handheld fan to dry your skin quickly."

“The only drawback is that you’ll take more time completing your skincare regimen at night, especially when you’re already tired and sleepy,” says Dr. Irene. “But it’s definitely worth the effort!"

What works on TikTok may or may not work for you. As a general rule, carefully ease retinol into your routine by using retinol-infused skincare only once or twice a week. Dr. Irene recommends cleansing the face from the day’s makeup, oil, and dirt. Then, follow with a toner to help prep the skin. As for moisturizer, you can apply it before or after retinol or before and after retinol if you’re using the sandwich method.

Some formulas are created specifically to allow the skin to slowly adjust to retinol sans irritation. Consider POND'S Age Miracle Ultimate Youth Day Serum, which has hexyl-retinol to help reduce fine lines, wrinkles, and dark spots. Don’t forget to slather on the SPF afterward, since retinol makes your skin more sensitive to light. Pair it with POND'S Age Miracle Ultimate Youth Night Serum to boost skin repair and promote skin elasticity and radiance.

Finally, it’s still best to speak with your trusted dermatologist. Is the retinol sandwich method effective, or are you better off not doing it? Once you know the retinol products and application methods best suited to your skin condition, your skin will be better prepped to take in and reap its anti-aging benefits – with little to zero side effects – in no time.